The Ssese: Kitobo Island

I have meant to update you all sooner about my trip to this island, which happened a few months ago, but I had kept on putting it off till now. Better late than never, I guess. Well, I went there with Kathleen, who is a fellow M from AIM, and a large group from Milmday to do HIV/AIDS outreach in the island of Kitobo. Kitobo is part of an archipelago of 84 islands called the Ssese in Lake Victoria. We left from the Entebbe sailing club in Entebbe (of course) and traveled for about 2 to 3 hours to get to Kitobo. Kathleen had initially noticed that she was getting a lot of patients who were HIV-positive coming from the islands—and so thought it would be a good idea to really see what the prevalence of HIV is in the islands. I had heard from a second-hand source before I got to Uganda that some believed that the prevalence to be as high as 90%, then 70%, but I’m not really sure if those figures are totally accurate. I still don’t think they’re true—that would be ridiculously high (though not improbable). Although I have to say that from what I have heard of the lifestyle of these fishermen—it is quite conducive to spreading STDs. Nonetheless, when I got there it was still a sight that needs be notice. It’s a shantytown that is totally dependent upon the fishing business. Most came here to become fishermen—since it seems that catching fish brings good money (although, I’m hearing that Lake Victoria is suffering from over-fishing). But most are singles or I’m thinking married away from home—and so you know how that goes around here. There were plenty children who would curiously clasp my hand as I walk around, which was wonderful—but I never found a school for them, sad. There was a church…if I remembered correctly, but how it is doing, I have not a clue. We set up our clinic in the local bar and that is where people get counseled and tested for HIV. I didn’t take too many pictures inside the town because I just thought it would be cause too much attention—and I just thought it would be disrespectful. Anyways, I did take some pictures in the outskirt of town near the shore. You know what’s interesting is that the island is mostly a plateau—but all of the people live on the sea level near the shore. I asked why they didn’t buil their houses on the high places—because I was thinking to myself, I would rather live where there’s a nice view, you know. But they said they don’t build houses there because they’re afraid of spirits that dwell there (too bad!). Which reminds me to tell you that a lot of traditional (aka witchcraft, haha) practices are still performed (i.e. child sacrifices) out here—so people here are still quite wary of the islands.

I typically do not take photos that would show people's faces during
VCTs, but this time I did, oops! Well, one of the staff told me to do it
anyhow, so I hope that was alright.

One of the Mildmay counselors giving pre-test group counseling in
the make shift bar-cum-clinic.

Two cute children playing by the shore.

At night, you can witness dozens of candle-lit boats out at sea--the time
men are usually out fishing. It's quite a site--I should've taken a shot,
DARN!

The town is built a few feet above sea-level near the shore on one side
the island. The rest the land rises up to a plateau that makes up most
of the island.

There is such a contrast between the white bird (don't know what kind)
and the pile of garbage that surrounds the village.

So we did the VCT for a day and a half and spent the night at a neighboring island called Banda (Bamboo) island where there is a hostel owned by a hippy-like British expatriate (alongside his German expat-cum-sidekick). Actually, he’s technically not an expat since he was born in Kenya and now lives in Uganda running an island backpacker’s hostel. Accommodations were fair, but the food was delicious. His pumpkin soup was incredibly good and his ratatouille was smashing (do I sound British, probably not, just corny, huh?). I was telling myself, ooh, ratatouille—reminds me of the movie, I’ll have to try and cook that one of these days. He also made his own banana liquor and he let me take a sip of his coffee spiked with the stuff. I think I tried some, but I forget now—but, if I did, I violated AIM policy not to take any alcohol. Anyways, even if I did drink it, I did it in front Steve (the regional officer of AIM) who, coincidentally was also the pilot of the boat. Oh well. Steve, I think said that Dominic, the owner, previously had a more negative opinion of Christians, but after meeting him and Kathleen, he has slowly changed his mind. One good benefit is that M’s from AIM get to stay there for free. Sweet, huh? If you had time to read his site, you can sort of tell how he is like. He’s quite funny.